Return to Natchez: Under the Hill

“Without a single exception, the most licentious spot that I ever saw.”

That was travel writer, William Richardson’s take in 1816. Also described as “where the only thing cheaper than the body of a woman was the life of a man,” PRYOR KNOWLEDGE opens with a detailed description of this wild and wicked river town along the Mississippi.

Due to the second most deadly tornado in US history (1840) and the fickle course of the river, all the buildings on the left side of the photo are now gone. Only a couple of restaurants and the Silver Street Gallery & Gifts (PRYOR KNOWLEDGE sold there) remain. But most interesting of all is the Under the Hill Saloon.

According to the Natchez Democrat, the location was built between 1830 and 1835.

Present-day owner, Andre Farish, Jr., says, “The records were destroyed in a courthouse fire during the 1840 tornado. We don’t know what the building was originally built for, but we know it was a bakery first, then a grocery store and beer joint.”

The establishment is considered the oldest continuously-running saloon on the Mississippi River.

Without a doubt, we had to sluice our gobs before leaving town.

Pryor cousins on the bluff above the river

As we headed down Silver Street, who did we spot walking but my Pryor cousins. We pulled up, and all agreed to meet at the Saloon.Upon arrival, we found an older fellow sitting on the bench. “Where are you from?” he asked.Wendy told him, “South Carolina.”Inside, as my husband ordered our drinks at the bar, the man asked him what had brought us there.

Within minutes, he came to me at our table. “I hear you wrote a book about Natchez.”

“I did.”

“Well, I’m going to have to get a copy.”

I told him they were sold two doors down. Darned if he didn’t leave the store that very minute to buy himself one. When he returned, I signed it, “To Johnny.”

The elephant pictured was in a back room. I learned too late that I should have touched it for good luck. Opportunity missed!

Aside from a top-notch bourbon and Diet Coke, the ambience of the Under the Hill Saloon is as warm and welcoming as your neighborhood watering hole. Yet, you can practically grasp the past in your hand. If you get to Natchez, which you should definitely do, go. Have a drink. Pet the elephant. You’ll be better for it.

Also, an outstanding video about the history and revitalization of this historic treasure came out in 2021. If you find the trailer interesting, the documentary itself is even moreso. Find it on Amazon Prime for a small fee.

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